The 22 miles of this section may seem a little lengthy but this is the distance between the only linking bus service. There is very little in the way of public transport around the villages between Narborough and Dereham and the route veers away from the main A47, which the X1 bus service uses, until the Wensum way can be used to walk down to Dereham. The only alternative to hiking the full distance is to either undertake a series of shorter circular walks or, as a group of walkers, use two cars to link between specific start and end points.
Even so, 22 miles is a good distance for a full days walk for those who are used to walking, and with late buses back from Dereham there is no need to rush the route. One surprise was that the single fare between Dereham and Narborough was £6 which seemed a lot of money for the distance but it is nonetheless good value for a days walking!
A Bridge to be Wary of
Bridges are not a rare encounter on a walk, therefore encountering the first bridge along this route was not a surprise. A short distance from where the path heads out of Narborough is this particular bridge that carries the busy A47 trunk road and both the footpath and the River Nar pass underneath this. The road above is a modern highway which forms the bypass to the village of Narborough and as such this overpass is a typical concrete based construction with vertical walls and a span of steel and concrete. The footpath below is a semi-firm surface with a tube railed fence to guard against falling into the river. The concrete, as with all modern conurbations, is strewn with graffiti which lacks charisma, thought or uniqueness. It is remarkable that such a small place like Narborough has a graffiti artist. If the authorities even wanted to charge the culprit it must would be easy to locate them as he or she must be the only graffiti artist in the village!
What makes this bridge worth the effort of verbally describing is its size, or more specifically its headroom. Most bridges that traverse footpaths are accommodating for the size of the average walker to comfortable pass under. At 6 foot in height, I may be a little taller than the average Briton so I cant argue if I have to stoop a little. But Kat is somewhat smaller than I and she also had to stoop to enter the confines of the bridge span. This initially was merely a slight inconvenience but the road above is on a slight curve and as such has a camber which dips away from Narborough. The consequence of this camber is that the headroom decreases as one walks under the bridge. This was not a slight difference in headroom but a reduction in height that involved me having to crawl the end few feet on hands and knees.
So what could have been the cause of this lack of headroom? Maybe the road was across a marshy area and had slowly sunk after it was built although one would have thought the designers had surveyed the area adequately before contemplating the construction. There was no evidence of any marshiness so probably not a good theory. Maybe the builders had misinterpreted the plans and got their measurements mixed up.... although such incompetence is not unheard of one would have expected this to have been picked up before now and accommodations made to allow for this miscalculation.
My best theory is that the architect of this modern construction was a dwarf with a chip on his or her shoulder and this was their method of getting their own back on us six footers. It was their retaliation for a life growing up to taunts such as 'I'm having a pint, do you want a short?' and 'whats the weather like down there' as well as their constant comparison to characters from Lord of the Rings. As I crawled from the dusty confines I could hear the sniggers of the vertical challenged architect ringing in my mind as another six footer was inconvenienced by his/her fiendish construction. But the joke was on them because I was laughing louder. Such challenges as this bridge do bring a comical element to a walk. It was fun. It was a laugh.
Many Features
The walk continues through the Bradmoor Plantation woodland up to Bradmoor Hill. There isn't any noticeable incline but there is a little revelation when the woodland makes way to a long thin clearing. On the left is a brick shelter, open at the front and with decorative columns looking elegant and distinctive in the woodland surroundings. To the right there is a view all the way down the hill to Narford Lake with Narford Hall just beyond. The construction on the left is a curiosity as I cant find anything out about this. My guess is that is purely a Victorian folly.
This is the first of many features that accompany this walk along with the most obvious and well known ones such as West Acre Priory, Castle Acre Priory and Castle Acre Castle but with so many miles to cover time only allows a brief perusal of each feature. Other sights are Lexham clock tower, Lexham Hall which appears down an grassed avenue amid the woodland that is bordered by the track to Litcham, Litcham Common, Mileham castle, and the Medieval village of Little Bittering.
Village Pubs
There are a few pubs along this route, and if one walked in the opposite direction the
West Acre Stag and the
Castle Acre Ostrich are both worthy historic inns that are worth the stop for. Unfortunately on this walk it was much too early for pub opening hours and a cup of tea in Barnfields cafe at Castle Acre was a worthy rest and refreshment. Next door to the cafe is the 18th century Albert Victor pub which was undergoing refurbishment. I do hope this reopens as a pub, which does appear to be the case judging by an article in the
Lynn News. Both the Albert Victor and the Ostrich were visited when walking the Peddars Way in 2008 and are detailed in
The Peddars Way - Watton to Castle Acre
The only pub beyond Castle Acre is at Litcham. We had planned to arrive at lunchtime and got there as planned. With 20 ales regularly on we could have stayed all day! The next pub is not until Gressenhall and by this time the miles were telling on the legs. There are not many practical stops and we were both looking forward to getting to this pub, to put our feet up for half an hour and take stock after a days walking before we ambled the last couple of miles into Dereham. The pub was marked on the OS map and it appeared to be on the route of the Nar Valley Way so we would not need to detour around the village.
On entering the village we could not help but notice the abundance of people as we walked down the long straight road into the village. In addition was the odd scarecrow propped up by houses or at the edge of driveways. Groups of people were heading both out and into the village. Youngsters. Families. Aged couples hobbling along. I know it was a Saturday but even so one doesnt expect such a profuseness of people in a village. The road met the centre of the village with a sharp turn left and according to the OS map a pub on the right. Straight ahead was a green which appeared to have some event taking place on it judging by the bunting. This was obviously the source of the noise that would often be caught on the breezes. As we drew closer it was obviously a village fete. But the sight of the pub adjacent to the green was something that dampened the spirit. Windows that were boarded up. A sorry looking building. Closed for business. Then a thought occurred: A summer fete. And with a summer fetes there is always the possibility of a beer tent. It could be seen that there was many people heading away from this event which brought the conclusion that it was drawing to an end and gave a little extra impetus to hurry the weary legs towards the green in search of a beer tent. There wasn't a beer tent as such but there was a stall serving beer. Two barrels set behind the pedestal table and were constantly being drawn upon by the bar persons. Real ale. It was Wolfs Coyote or nothing. Wolfs Coyote is a well refreshing beer and at only £2.50 a pint who could want more. Heaven.
The Nar Valley Way used to end at Gressenhall. But in 2013 Norfolk Council created the new Wensum Way linking the end of the Nar Valley Way to Lenwade on the Marriotts Way to make up the Cross-Norfolk Trail linking Kings Lynn and Great Yarmouth. What had not been expected is that the Wensum Way has a link down into Dereham. Although we had planned to walk along the same footpaths it was comforting to know that this was part of the Wensum Way.
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