This is an easy section of the North Norfolk Coast Path although in times of adverse weather it can present a challenge with the exposed path that leads out to the site of the old Blakeney Chapel. This section follows the top of the defence banks and leaves the walker at the mercy of the elements. A couple of years prior to this walk we had walked in the opposite direction with a stiff westerly at our backs and a rain shower caught us before we got to Cley. This was not too bad as it was behind us but we passed a few walkers heading in the opposite direction, heads down, weatherproof jackets tied tight around there bodies and hoods held down as best as possible to keep out the torrents of rain that were gusting on the winds. At the time it had started out as a pleasant Sunday afternoon albeit with a keen breeze, however this quickly deteriorated and although this is only a couple of miles in distance such weather can catch walkers out.
On this particular walk we were blessed with sunshine, blue skies and little in the way of breezes. It was most pleasant and being early morning there were plenty of other folk out, some exercising their dogs, some casually taking in the sights, some hastening past in a jog but all taking advantage of the morning sunshine.
Blakeney Chapel
At the furthest point out on this marsh is the site where the old Blakeney Chapel used to rest. The OS map indicates an alternative path leading out to the location but this is no longer possible due to the rerouting of the River Glaven in 2005/6 which was designed to reduce the risk of flooding in the villages of Cley and Wiveton. Before the river was moved an archaeological investigation of the area of the Chapel was undertaken revealing evidence of prehistoric farming. Also discovered was the foundations of the Chapel dating from the 14th or 15th centuries which was probably associated with the friary at Blakeney. By the 16th century it had been converted into a house.
Blakeney
Blakeney is referred to as Esnuterle in the Domesday Book of 1086. Later, as referenced by the book
A General History of the County of Norfolk (by J Stacy published in 1829), it is called Snitterley, the book stating this name was attributed 'during the seventh year of the reign of Henry III' (1223). The name Snitterley is derived from the word Snet or Snyte and is an old English name for many rivers or streams of water. The first mention of the name Blakeney dates from 1240 when it was recorded that the village lay in the lee of the shingle ridge, with the name probably derived from the term "Black Island". The village developed into an important fishing port also trading in goods such as cereals and the import of timber, iron and coal. The port gained a bad reputation for piracy, its sheltered harbour luring in boats seeking haven from storms only for their cargoes to be stripped from them when they put ashore. Today the harbour has silted up and is unusable by cargo ships.
At Blakeney, adjacent to the Guildhall is the Manor Hotel, this has a small walled garden facing the the Mariners Hill which contains a 400 year old Mulberry tree which is worth seeking out. Both the Guildhall and Mariners Hill are well worth investigating.
Flooded Marshes
Walking along the coast path into Blakeney, it soon became evident that there had been a very high tide with signs of the car park in front of the quay being flooded prior to our arrival. The waters, by this time, were receding and the flow out from the quay was pretty significant which was quite an amazing sight to behold. The damp surroundings, the couple preparing their yacht for sail, the relaxed sight of a sunny morning Blakeney quay were all worthy of sitting and pondering over whilst tucking into a bacon buttie and mug of tea from the little mobile cafe at the edge of the quay. Many a time I have read the local papers reporting another motorist returning to their parked car on Blakeney Quay to find it swilling with water because they had not been aware of how high the tide can be here. Today there was a few cars standing on the quay but all had obviously parked up after the tide had receded. There are plaques on the walls around the quay recording the heights of the severe floods of 1897, 1953 and 1978.
Although the waters were abating this did leave consequences on the footpath beyond Morston. The boatyard had been flooded and water was left in the dips and gulleys of the marsh through which the footpath is routed, necessitating a diversion around the track through the boatyard. Beyond this point the path runs along the edge of the marshes with frequent areas of flooding evident. In most instances these were just large puddles in the gulleys that could be easily negotiated around with a hop or a jump. But there were some more extensive areas of flooding between Morston and Freshes Creek that entailed more thought. There was one instance where the ground dips down and is usually filled with mud and water even at the driest of seasons no matter what the tide does and this was completely awash with a small lake of water. This had to be walked around by taking a well trodden route along the edge of the obstacle and into the field beyond. Another stretch proved not so easy and did have us contemplating taking shoes and socks off to get across. Eventually a route through the undergrowth on higher ground was trampled down to get around the waters.
All of this goes to show just how vulnerable this part of the coast is and it is easy to see that it would not take much to plunge all the marshes under water. Usually a spring tide accompanies a full moon or within a couple of days either side but the full moon was fourteen days away, half way through the lunar cycle. The weather was settled with no encroaching storms that would produce a tidal surge. Therefore I am not certain why there was such a high tide.
Wot no Llamas
The last occasion we walked this section we encountered a group of people out walking their llamas. I have never seen anyone walking a llama prior to this, or indeed since. Dogs yes, a parrot on a shoulder, a mouse in a blazer pocket and even the rare sight of someone with a cat on a lead but a llama most definitely not. According to those learned gentlemen who formed the intellectual troupe which went by the name of Monty Python, a llama is a quadruped which lives in big rivers like the Amazon. It has two ears, a heart, a forehead, and a beak for eating honey. It is provided with fins for swimming. We were nowhere near the amazon but I can definitely tell the avid reader that these creatures did posses two ears and a forehead. No honey was in evidence. Luckily there was no sign of anyone swimming in the Wells Salt Marshes otherwise I would have had to calmly clear my throat and shout in strong voice 'Look out, there are llamas' as llamas, according to Mr Cleese et al, are dangerous.
On this days walk, although we kept a keen eye out, we did not encounter any llamas, no honey and no-one swimming.
Pubs and other points of interest
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